La Maison, in Tel-Aviv, is exactly the type of place I love:
Tiny, free of artifice, and without a single molecule of compromise or pretension, to be found within it’s walls.

And better yet, it’s run by two of the best cooks in town, the former chefs at Yoezer, (Also in my TLV Top 5)  Ilan DovShani  and Ben Tidhar.
Not only do these guys bust out the VERY BEST charcuterie in Tel-Aviv, they are also fantastic guys who work hard, remain simple and down to earth, and make no secret that they are on a mission for perfection.
In short: My Kind of Guys.

In the several months that they have been open, I have become a real pest to those guys, I tell you:
I sit there at least twice a week, usually with an entourage of cooks, shovelling up everything those two are making, taking up all the space outside, (which is 3 tables outside on the sidewalk enclosed with a simple cast-iron fence with charming little iron birds clustered on the wires. Tres mignon!)

drinking fine Belgian beers, or in my case, arak, talking about industry gossip, and in general, treating the place like it’s our living room.
Well, true, there is a beauty-salon across the street catering to the, ahem, “cross-dressing” crowd, and maybe that isn’t in any of our living rooms, or maybe it is, because it’s none of my business what my cooks or my friends do at home!
But, hey, I am not complaining about that! It adds to the atmosphere!

This is not a real client of the beauty salon across the steet

Which is exactly another thing which is so great about La Maison-
Ilan and Ben aren’t just chefs. They are genuinely warm and interesting people, who make everyone, not just us cooks, feel at home.

Now that I have spent a bunch of time telling you what hella guys they are, let’s get down to business.
And by “Business”, I mean, discussing the best charcuterie that I have eaten in Israel.
Let’s face it: all the poseurs and followers of PR hype may sit at “Charcuterie”, but I sure hope it isn’t for the actual charcuterie, because that place is like that old story about “The Emperor’s New Clothes”- in short, a load of pretensions, out-of–line prices, and no substance.

The opposite is true at La Maison:
Their Pate de Campagne is comparable to the best ones that I have tried in France: Roughly ground liver, cured meats, and pistachios, gently baked en bain marie, the texture is rustic yet sublime, the flavours balanced, complex, and delectable! And let me tell you, it isn’t easy to make this the right way!
The outrageously rich and decadent Terrine of Chicken and Chicken Livers with White Truffle is simply “Over The Top”- and I mean that in the very best way!!
You’ll feel like a privileged French aristocrat when you sit down and eat this!

The little jars of the lightest and most delicate Veal Liver mousse are a special treat that should NOT be missed.
And the lightly smoked Pork Neck with a thick crust of toasted fennel seeds is succulent, unique, and makes a sandwich so divine it will bring tears to your eyes!

Rima is eating too much as usual

Handmade Coppa? Hell yeah!
Jambon, with a perfectly decadent layer of fat surrounding the delicate, sweet meat!
A Pancetta that they cure for 4 months, the only one in Israel!
I used to have to hand carry the stuff back home from trips to Italy!
A Roast Beef which they make from a huge cut of Sirloin on the Bone- covered with a thick crust of herbs butter and roasted to a perfect medium-rare!
Oh my God!  I usually sit there and eat about 300 grams of this, on it’s own, for lunch!
Corned Beef, Smoked Veal Pastrama- All of the very best quality, and with their unmistakable signature of excellence.

Even the potato salad, and chopped liver is different and so much better than the usual versions..
They also make handmade fresh sausages, which are sold raw, to take home and cook-  and yeah, I know that everyone and his brother has started making fresh sausages around here lately, but don’t be fooled:
Making sausages is a precise and difficult science, not as simple as just tossing a bunch of random stuff into a meat grinder and stuffing it into sausage casings-
(as most people do here!)
Making a perfect sausage is a precise emulsification technique- meaning that exactly the right amounts of meat and fat, at the correct temperatures, must be blended together to form the mixture, so it won’t turn into a greasy, crumbly, mess when cooked! Now that’s the kind of  “Molecular” cuisine I like!
These sausages are by far and away, the very best in Israel.
A perfect Boudin Noir (Blood Sausage) delicately flavoured with muscat and pepper.. succulent Smoked Paprika Chorizo,
(perfect for making Paella, I might add) white Bratwurst…
Take a bunch of these home, grill them up, make a salad and open a few bottles of wine.. Dinner is served!!

This is Ilan

And as if that isn’t enough, Ben has recently started to make absolutely fresh, delicious, and delicate pickled Palamida, and herring cured with olive oil, bay leaves, and allspice! Mon Dieu!
He claims he never eats fish unless it’s raw, so he won’t touch the stuff himself, but I have something to say to him: Buddy, you don’t know what you are missing!
And in case you cheap bastards aren’t convinced yet, the prices are not only reasonable, they are in fact, TRES reasonable!
Believe me, cooks are notoriously broke, and whether they love a place or not, if they can’t afford it, they just don’t go!
And my crew is there multiple times a week!

Up until now, they have been open from noon-8pm, from Sundays to Thursdays, and until 4pm on Fridays, but now, they plan on opening up at night, too, with a tiny bar, which in my opinion, is fantastic news.
Now all of us cooks can not only sit there all day, we can sit there at night, too- and DRINK! Hallelujah!
I only have one request, guys:
Bring some more wine, please! Or at least some Pastis! Truth be told, I’m not a beer-drinkin’ kind of girl.
But that’s just being petty, really.
I’ve even made a convert of Alon! If we don’t go there every Friday afternoon for lunch, he sulks and pouts, whines and complains, and generally makes my life miserable, until we get there!

Alon is drinking too much as usual

Well- as all of you know, at any given time, there are only 5 restaurants which I will sit at, happily, and recommend in Tel-Aviv, and since Yoshi closed a while back, there had only been 4-
Until La Maison came along, and jumped on in to the Elite Top 5!!
And to that, I say- Welcome, Boys, and Long May You Reign!!

La Maison
Tchernikovsky #1 (near corner of Allenby)

03) 620 6022

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For those of you who watch “Duet”-
There is one episode which was devised by the producers to cover-up a disastrous pilot, (nothing to do with me!!)
where I must introduce the episode by saying:
“This is an unusual Duet..because this time, it’s not my story..”

And so I will say this again.. but yet, in a way, it is my story, because it is the story of when Rima met Peter..
A chance meeting which, in fact, changed my life.

So, it began about a year ago, we were sitting around the house on Saturday, and the phone rang.
It was Yomi Levi (you remember, one of my best friends, who, along with his brother, owns and runs the best Turkish specialty shop in Tel-Aviv.. מעדניית יום טוב at 43 Levinsky..)
”Wake up!” he said, “We are going to Herzliya to eat at a great Turkish place! I’m picking you up in an hour!”
So what to do except get ready to go??

An hour later, Yomi arrived at our door, and with him was a drop-dead gorgeous man who looked like some sort of cinematic fantasy hybrid between, say, George Clooney, and a young Sean Connery..

Yomi introduced us, saying “This is Peter Norman- the famous Swedish chef everyone has been telling you that you must meet- he popped by, and decided to join us for lunch!”

Now, of course, I was overjoyed.
Because, actually, for months, I had been hearing “Chatter” (as they say in the C.I.A and Mossad when referring to receiving  high-quality buzz about someone-) about the fabulous Peter Norman- a crazy chef and stylist of mythological talent, who for reasons unknown, had decided to leave his pastoral farm in Sweden and move to Israel..
And in fact, I had been scheduled several times to meet him and due to one arak thing or another, just never happened..

Well, never mind. He came into our house, a book in his hand, introduced himself..
And it was that old cliche you always hear..”I felt like I had known him my entire life”. But it was true.
The book he had brought to me was in fact a copy of his book, “the PINK Cookbook”

http://www.lundlund.com/food-stylists/peter-norman/biography

Now, as all of you know, I do not read, or own, any cookbooks. But this one was different.
Not so much a cookbook, this was the single most aesthetically beautiful piece of food art I had ever seen.
And what made it even more striking to me was, the same time as I had been travelling the world, to 13 locations, filming “Duet”- Peter had been travelling the world- to 13 locations- shooting on location each chapter of his book.
It was remarkable, and his book took my breath away- And it still does.

Within hours of meeting, (Well, the place in Herzliya was closed!) we were all sitting at a steak house in NeveTzedek- (Makom shel Basar, to be exact, and I actually happen to really like this place- site : http://makomshelbasar.rest-e.co.il/)  Eating steaks, drinking countless bottles of wine, talking about travels, life, food, adventures, as if we were lifelong friends just reunited after a few months of travels apart, comparing stories..

That night (which in fact happened to be Peter’s birthday) ended up with us all over at Peter’s place-
(A beautiful, welcoming oasis of impeccable taste, refinement, and beauty, in the middle of Tel-Aviv)
drinking Swedish Aquavit, downing frozen vodka, eating caviar, dancing around the room to Brazilian remixes of 70’s disco classics, and generally having the time of our lives!!

And that was the start of our friendship.
From that day on, we trawled the markets of Tel-Aviv, ate countless dinners in his beautiful home, gossiped, planned menus, brainstormed ideas for all kinds of projects, cooked and ate beautiful meals, and of course, drank endless bottles of wine..

Peter, as is his nature, that is to say, he is a true citizen of the world, and follows his heart fearlessly, and purely, has moved away to Mexico City, just 2 weeks ago, with his partner, who we all fell in love with as he did..

And I will say this-
My life, and in fact, all of Israel, became a duller, and poorer place the day he left.
I have never met someone like Peter before- Full of charm, grace, laughter, wit, generosity, empathy, and blazing talent- Yet without one bit of the pretentious ego or narcissism that plague many in our field, with far lesser gifts than his..

I know I will visit him many times in beautiful Mexico,  a country which is also one of my true loves..
Strangely, in another part of my life, I was sure I would move there to live one day.

And I know he will be back to Israel many times, too, as the dust of this strange land has gotten under his skin, and will never allow him to turn his back completely on this place..

Meeting Peter was one of the rare occurrences which even fleetingly, make me believe in a higher power-
One which brought us together in order to experience life all that much more fully.

Miss you Peter

Rima Olvera & Peter Norman’s Grilled Fresh Shrimp with Tarragon and Pistachio Butter

20 large fresh shrimps, cleaned by cutting through the back of the shell with scissors, removing the sand vein, but leaving the head attached (if you simply insist on it, you can remove the heads, but they look and taste much better with them on..)

Carefully butterfly the shrimp tails (open them, but leave the shell whole from the back to hold the butter while roasting..)
2 sticks (200 grams) unsalted butter, softened,
3-4 cloves fresh garlic,
1 bunch fresh tarragon leaves,
about 1/4 cup fresh flatleaf parsley,
splash of Pastis, Pernod, or white wine,
zest from 1 lemon,
several turns fresh ground black pepper,
1/4 cup of shelled crushed pistachios,
big pinch sea salt-
Process all in food processor.
Spread each opened shrimp tail (look at photo) with a thick layer of the butter, and roast on top rack of oven, on hottest temp/”broil”, for about 4-5 minutes.
Serve immediately, with fresh lemon wedges (Meyer’s if available) nice sourdough bread, a frisee and lettuce salad, and a few bottles of crisp, dry white wine (like Sancerre, or good unoaked Sauvignon Blanc)

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I decided that I will start putting up the menus from my monthly members-only Supper Club here on my blog..
Ok, maybe not all the full menus, all the time, because let’s face it, I happen to be an ego-driven megalomaniac who is convinced that other chefs will rip off my ideas..
But, I will post some of them, I promise, and add photos from the dinners the next day..

Tonight happens to be a Wine Pairing Dinner, with one of my favourite Israeli boutique wineries, Alona Vineyards, and I wanted to create a menu that captures all the delicacy, yet, well, let’s not beat around the bush-
Bombastic Israeli Strength, of these incredible wines- using all the ingredients from the region.

So with no further ado- I present the menu for tonight’s dinner:

Omnivore Gastronomic Society and Supper Club

Presents on Thursday, April 15, 2010, at 8:30pm

“Symphony in shades of Grape”

A very special Omnivore featuring the beautiful wines of Alona Vineyards.

The winemaker will be in attendance.

A Delicate Salad of Crispy Duck

with confit strawberries, fresh herbs, and cardamom and rosepetal dressing

Wine: Alona Rose, 2008

Goose Liver “Bijoux”

Tiny profiteroles filled with goose liver, cherries, pistachios, spices, star anise and black tea syrup

Wine: Alona Merlot, 2008

Rare Beef Filet with Tempura Sage Leaves

Corn and white truffle fritters, artichoke and enoki mushroom salad

Wine: Alona Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2008

Red Tuna “Kubeh”

Moroccan black olives, cured anchovies, tarragon, oranges, and green almonds

Wine: Alona Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2008

Lamb Chops with Aniseed Crust

Goats cheese and mint crispy Yemen pancake turnovers, grilled grapes, and figs in balsamic

Wine: Alona Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2008

DESSERT:

Caramel au Fleur de sel Tarts with Brulee Figs and Mint Ice Cream

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Guys-

I think it’s very symbolic that my very first blog post coincides with the fact that this Monday is the very first time that Shuk ha’Carmel is starting the Night Shuk- and I will be at Monterey Bay Aquarium– MAKING SUSHI! and pouring sake! and having fun with one of my best friends, Moshe..

All of you who know me know that is the ONLY place i will buy fish.. and also coincidentally,  because of Moshe and his exquisite fish.. I ended up becoming his friend, and did i tell you he held up one corner of my “Chuppah” when we got married??

And his beautiful speech reduced everyone there to tears??!

well- in any case- I am looking forward with joy to a great Monday night over at the Carmel market… and i am even going to bring some of my precious shiso leaves from my garden! The only ones in Israel!

and remember.. It’s traditional to send the sushi chef a cup of sake to say thanks.. hehehe… so- See you all there!!  7pm-11pm Monday night..

And by the way.. my show, “Duet” is premiering here in Israel on “Arutz ha’Ochel” this Wed. Aug 26 at 10pm..

so I hope you will watch, and let me know (honestly!) what you think …

From the album:
“תכניות חדשות באוגוסט 2009 בערוץ האוכל” by Israel FOOD channel

דואט – Duet הפקת מקור חדשה! בשפה האנגלית!
ימי רביעי, החל ב-26 באוגוסט בשעה 22:00
סדרת יוקרה חדשה מבית היוצר של ענני-תקשורת. שפית-העל רימה אולברה פוצחת באודיסיאה קולינרית חובקת עולם ומתחקה אחר מיטב השפים ומאכליהם. במסגרת בילויים משותפים בני יממה תתלווה אולברה אל אשפי בישול מקומיים שידריכו אותה בנבכי המטבח של ארצם ואף יספקו לה הזדמנות לבשל כמה מן המנות המקומיות בעצמה. בטורקיה תחבור אולברה אל השף ודאט בסארן, בעל מסעדת “פרייה” הנחשבת לאחד המוסדות הקולינריים החשובים באזור. שמו של בסארן יצא למרחוק כמי שאמון על שימורם של מתכונים עות’מאניים אותנטיים וכמומחה לשחזור המדויק של המטבח העות’מאני על שלל תבשיליו המסורתיים. בניס תתלווה אולברה אל השף כריסטיאן פלומייל, בעל מסעדת L’UNIVERS, המחזיקה בכוכב מישלן. אולברה תבלה את היום כולו עם פלומייל, החל מביקור בשוק המקומי, הילוות אל תחנת הרדיו בה מגיש פלומייל את תכניתו הקבועה וכלה בבישול ארוחת יום הולדת ליום הולדתה ה-60 של אימו. אולברה תמשיך בסיוריה הקולינריים-הגלובליים, כאשר תתלווה בהודו אל השף סנג’יב קאפור, הכוכב האולטימטיבי של המטבח ההודי המחזיק ב-15 מסעדות ברחבי העולם, ובאיטליה תתוודע אל השף אליה ריצו ובנו – מתיאו, שניהם מנהלים את מסעדת ‘איל דסקו’, אחת המסעדות הידועות בורונה, המחזיקה בשני כוכבי מישלן.
רימה אולברה מחזיקה כיום בחברת קייטרינג פרטית הפועלת בישראל ובסן פרנסיסקו. בין לקוחותיה של אולברה נמנים ד”ר קארל דג’ראסי ממציא הגלולה למניעת הריון וחתן פרס נובל, וטביתה סורן, כתבת MTV לשעבר. כמו כן תפקדה במהלך ארבע שנים כשפית ראשית במסעדת אנריקוס הקליפורנית בעלת 180 מושבים שהתמחתה בבישול ים תיכוני איכותי.

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