For those of you not familiar with this quote- it happens to be from a novel from the series of which I adore- Douglas Adams’ “Hitchhiker’s Guide To The Galaxy”- An irreverent and hilarious satire about the entire galaxy…and the ridiculous and destructive consequences of Human Nature..

 
Specifically in this book, the protagonist revisits what he thinks is Earth, although it was destroyed in a previous novel.. Only to find out that the Earth he is now on, is an artificial one, created by Dolphins as a nature preserve in their “Save the Humans” campaign…

Now, this might seem irrelevant, but I assure you it is not- This post is about  SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD and FISHING PRACTICES…

I guess I should point out that I grew up in a very remote and isolated part of Northern California- A place called Mendocino, where all us kids grew up with the Pacific Ocean as our backyard- where we were as familiar and comfortable with the sea and it’s secrets as we were with our best friends-
At the time, in the 70’s and 80’s, this part of the California Coast was still almost pristine, unspoiled, and full of every imaginable marine life-

Mendocino California

 
Of course, there was no way to make a living then in that place unless you were either a Marijuana Farmer,

Marijuana in the "Emerald Triangle"

or a fisherman, or someone who made their living from something connected with the sea– which all of our friends and family fit either into one or both of these categories..
In any case, life was different.

There were so many Abalone, me and my dad (A Marine Biologist who actually happened to be the first man to dive under the Antarctic ice) used to go out in his canoe and pull up our limit in the time it took to free-dive down 4 times and pop them off the rocks-
We were so damn broke sometimes, we ate these when we had nothing else, and we used to make jokes as we ate our Abalone by candlelight in his cabin in the redwoods, that we were eating a delicacy for free that the “Rich Tourists” paid fantastic sums for.. Because we didn’t have much else!!

Diving for Abalone

A real big Abalone

I still have friends there, and they hide their Abalone Diving Spots jealously, and yet still have a hell of a hard time even finding their legal limit
(see link about Abalone regulations)
And God help you if you make the mistake of taking undersize Abs, or over your limit!!! That will be a VERY expensive mistake!!!!
http://sonic.net/~rocky/abregslimits.htm

Ling Cod was so plentiful, only the very cheapest restaurants sold it, as “Fish and Chips”. You couldn’t get rid of the stuff!!! We used to serve it for Employee Meals at the restaurant I worked at in High School!

A huge Ling Cod

 
This fish is now so rare as to be a protected species, with extremely strict restrictions!
http://www.dfg.ca.gov/news/news04/04032.html

You guys all have eaten “Uni” (Sea-Urchin, or Oursin, roe) at a Sushi Bar, right??

Uni Nigiri

 
Well, it may surprise you to know that in the early 80’s in Mendocino, there were so many Sea-Urchins, that they were considered a pest, and in order to get them, all you needed was a wire mesh screen and a small boat- You could pull up literally hundreds of pounds of them in a few hours.

California sea urchins

These were then sold by the pick-up truckload (20$ a pickup load!!) to the marijuana farmers, who smashed them up and used them for fertilizer!!!!!

Around the mid 80’s, the Japanese got wind of this immense stock of “Uni”, sent agents out there to our coast, started paying the fishermen 500$ per 50 lbs…Which were then iced down , driven straight to the airport, and flown to Japan.. where the prices even then were around 100$ per cleaned pound…and the prices just kept going up..

Fresh Uni

 
And now, the once plentiful Sea-Urchin is a rare sight… And it’s a good chance that if you eat Uni, even in Japan, these came from Mendocino!!!

By the way, this type of Sea-Urchin should not be confused with the French “Oursin”, which come from Brittany, and are managed well, and not threatened in any way at the present time..
However, they are extremely susceptible to pollution, and whole colonies can be wiped out or contaminated by industrial pollutants and sewage pathogens, etc- Therefore, be careful to only eat fresh, LIVE Oursin, from a reputable restaurant!

Alon eats Oursin at Cafe Turin

My family originally comes from Carmel, on the Monterey Peninsula.

Sea Otter in Monterey Bay

Carmel Beach

 
My dad did a lot of research for Scripps Institute of Oceanography, and logged loads of technical dives in the Submarine Canyon in the Monterey Bay- the 3rd deepest in the world-
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://sanctuarysimon.org/monterey/images/build/sc_overview_1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://sanctuarysimon.org/monterey/sections/submarineCanyons/overview.php%3Fsec%3Dsc&usg=__BdetGJCesvCo7mipxL6t5GSUxgY=&h=190&w=270&sz=24&hl=iw&start=19&um=1&tbnid=kw5Jl2akobEcjM:&tbnh=80&tbnw=113&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsubmarine%2Bcanyon%2Bmonterey%26hl%3Diw%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:he:IE-SearchBox%26rlz%3D1I7GGLJ_en%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

The things he studied and photographed I can remember seeing photos as a kid and being AMAZED at this fantastical world, lying beneath the waters, as close as we could see, yet a completely different universe, with its own life forms, rules, mysteries, and secrets-

Diving in the Kelp Forest, Monterey

Rima and giant squid

 
Ones which we may never now know in full as it has been almost irreparably harmed by pollution in the last few decades.

Now, I  hope you will forgive me, as this post, as usual, seems to have taken on a life of its own, which took a different track from my intention of just providing a short and accurate overview of which types of fish you should be eating, and which you should avoid, if you care at all about sustainability and conservation, and have a desire to be able to eat fish in ten years from now..
So perhaps I should get to the point…

Rima and a Skate

Which is, as much as I would love to scarf up Abalone to my heart’s content, gorge on Sicilian Tuna Bottarga on a regular basis,

Sicilian Bottarga

 
and shovel up platefuls of Chilean Sea-Bass, I just cannot, in good conscience, do this anymore…
(Friends!!!!!! PLEASE DO NOT EAT CHILEAN SEA-BASS!!!!
although it was once my favourite fish, it has been exploited and overfished to the point that anyone who eats it, or puts it on the menu of their restaurant, is directly contributing to the probable extinction of a species-
So- I urge you to NOT TOUCH IT, and to tell any restaurant that serves it that you do not want to see it on menus!!! *sob*)

As distasteful as the subject is- the reality is, we live in different times, and it’s literally up to us, and especially those of us who are chefs, to lead the way in making ethical and responsible choices about what we will cook, eat, and serve to our clients!!!!

Tuna from "La Boqueria" in Barcelona, This fish had a tag guaranteeing it was legally caught

Lots of people say to me, “What’s the big deal?! There’s always Fish Farms! Why the hysteria?!!
http://www.sviva.gov.il/Enviroment/bin/en.jsp?enPage=e_BlankPage&enDisplay=view&enDispWhat=Zone&enDispWho=fish_farms_e&enZone=fish_farms_e
And to this, I sadly must say- Fish Farms are no silver bullet to stop the vampire of overfishing and threats to species- Fish Farms can cause different problems, both ecologically, and biologically, which in the long run, could add to the problem, not solve it-
http://www.iol.co.za/index.php?click_id=31&art_id=vn20050405065346180C545538&set_id=

We  also need to understand that continuing to deploy huge, modern, fishing fleets using every bit of technological advantage to find fish and then pull them up in absolutely unsustainable numbers, just cannot continue-

If you love travelling in Italy, as I do, and know the Italians’ love of seafood and fish, it will break your heart to go there now and go to the fish markets and speak to the fishermen and fish merchants- who have seen catches decrease in size and quality to the point that many entire villages and economies dependent 100% on fishing, are destroyed..

filming "Duet" in Verona Italy with Elia and Matteo Rizzo of Il Desco Ristorante

Why?? OVERFISHING. Plain and simple.
People seem to forget that complaining to the government when quotas and limits are put into effect, as if it is some punishment designed to create suffering for the fishermen- It is a NECCESSARY MEASURE effected to try to preserve at least a tiny bit of base stocks of fish and allow the populations to stabilize!!!
http://blogs.nature.com/news/thegreatbeyond/2008/11/too_many_tonnes_of_tuna.html

I love fish, as all of you know-
in fact, it is my favourite thing to eat, and to cook.
But because I love fish, I am more careful than ever to make sure the choices of fish I am buying are responsible choices…
As time goes on.. the amount of Ahi Tuna, Grouper, Yellowtail, etc. I use is going way down, and my use of sardines, anchovies, local blue crabs, mackerel, etc, is going up.. And I urge you to do the same…
Save the rarer and precariously balanced fish species for special occasions, where they belong!!

Rima and mediterranean camel-fish

Here again is the link to Monterey Bay Aquarium’s great pocket guide to safe and sustainable seafood- I hope very much you will download and use this, and speak up when you see something you know shouldn’t be on a menu…
http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/SeafoodWatch/web/sfw_regional.aspx

This obviously is just a tiny bit of information, to hopefully just get everyone to think twice about what kind of fish you are buying and eating, and where they are from, and what is the status of the species…
I for sure am NOT planning on stopping eating fish!!!
Just trying to be a little more thoughtful about it..

NEXT POST….
BACK TO MY USUAL WISE-ASS COMMENTARY AND BON-VIVANTISM!!!  so please don’t delete me..:) 
And now if you will excuse me I happen to have a fish
(local red palamida- there’s tons of ‘em here!!!)  in the frig which I am going to make into a big plate of sashimi!!!

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If there’s one thing I simply cannot get enough of- it’s oysters!!

Freddy eats an oyster at our wedding

The season has just started this week, so I thought, what better time to write about the celestial joys of the noble Ostreidae ?!
 

First of all- I find it a crying shame that many people here in Israel have never tried an oyster.
It’s a crime! A sin! It’s inexcusable!
I’ve heard people say things like: “You want me to.. eat that thing?!”
But it’s..alive!!” “it’s slippery… slimy!”   “it’s fishy!”
And you know what I say to this?! “NONSENSE!!”

www.rimaolvera.com
( See my blog updates www.rimaolvera.com/blog )

A really fresh oyster is one of the most sublime of culinary delights-
The first of it’s surprises is it’s ability to transport one back in time, to places of happy memory- 
in my case,  I grew up always next to the sea- and some of my happiest times were when I was wading through tide-pools with my dad, him showing me the infinite worlds contained in these saline microcosms- salt spray from the breakers beyond the cliffs misting over us from below, the clean, salty, air full of freshness and life-

THAT is the scent of a really fresh oyster- the ONLY scent, by the way, it should have- If it has even the remotest hint of , let’s say, *ahem*, the beach in Jaffa in summer, or anything similar or worse- Throw it away!

here is a link to Monterey Bay Aquarium- It’s an incredible place, like no where else in the world..
This is the place where I grew up, and my dad, a marine biologist, did a lot of research in this area in the 60’s.
They have one of the world’s top Ocean Research and Conservation Centers there, and I strongly urge you to read about Sustainable Seafood-
Your choices in what you eat from the sea impact the fate of the world’s oceans!

http://www.montereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx

The second of it’s gifts is the delicacy of it’s texture- There is nothing slimy about a fresh oyster! it has a crisp, yet delicate feel, like a perfectly cooked al-dente pasta!

Each type varies in flavour and colour depending on where they are from, the temperature of the water (the colder the water, the better. That’s why the season ends at the first of the warm months, and begins at the end of them.) what type of material it feeds on, and the salinity of the water.

And perhaps the very best of the sensory treasures the oyster will bestow on you, is the unmistakable Frisson of feeling absolutely decadent and privileged when you are eating them!

We are lucky now to be able to get good oysters in Israel- you just have to know where to get them!
I order mine from Moshe Penster, in the Shuk ha’ Carmel- you remember- the guy I recently had the “Night Shuk Sushi Bar” with?!
Here’s his number: 03-510-1863. Make sure you tell him I sent you!
and make sure to specify that you want them only on the day they arrive here from France!

2 Yoezer Ish Habira St.
Jaffa (near the clock)
03-6839115

And make sure to ask Shaul Avron, the charming, sophisticated, and knowledgeable owner, to choose for you an Aligote  (A lovely Bourgogne white wine!) to accompany them!

I had a 2004 Aligote over there recently (by the way, 2004 and 2007 are two of the very best vintages for Aligote in recent years..) which blew my mind!
it actually TASTED like a plate of fresh oysters! Whoah!!

Another wine which goes great with oysters (besides Champagne,obviously.. And I mean CHAMPAGNE, not Cava!!) is Sancerre, as I mentioned before.
It is just perfect.
And a really top-notch French Rose (NOT Israeli- sorry- not dry enough at all)  is excellent, too. As a matter of fact, there is a Rose de Sancerre!

As for different kinds- well, that would take a whole separate post to really get into-
and as usual- this post has gotten out of hand!
so let’s say I will continue this tomorrow.. and include lots more details, links, and places to go.. both in France, and in California..  so see you tomorrow!!!

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Guys-

I think it’s very symbolic that my very first blog post coincides with the fact that this Monday is the very first time that Shuk ha’Carmel is starting the Night Shuk- and I will be at Monterey Bay Aquarium– MAKING SUSHI! and pouring sake! and having fun with one of my best friends, Moshe..

All of you who know me know that is the ONLY place i will buy fish.. and also coincidentally,  because of Moshe and his exquisite fish.. I ended up becoming his friend, and did i tell you he held up one corner of my “Chuppah” when we got married??

And his beautiful speech reduced everyone there to tears??!

well- in any case- I am looking forward with joy to a great Monday night over at the Carmel market… and i am even going to bring some of my precious shiso leaves from my garden! The only ones in Israel!

and remember.. It’s traditional to send the sushi chef a cup of sake to say thanks.. hehehe… so- See you all there!!  7pm-11pm Monday night..

And by the way.. my show, “Duet” is premiering here in Israel on “Arutz ha’Ochel” this Wed. Aug 26 at 10pm..

so I hope you will watch, and let me know (honestly!) what you think …

From the album:
“תכניות חדשות באוגוסט 2009 בערוץ האוכל” by Israel FOOD channel

דואט – Duet הפקת מקור חדשה! בשפה האנגלית!
ימי רביעי, החל ב-26 באוגוסט בשעה 22:00
סדרת יוקרה חדשה מבית היוצר של ענני-תקשורת. שפית-העל רימה אולברה פוצחת באודיסיאה קולינרית חובקת עולם ומתחקה אחר מיטב השפים ומאכליהם. במסגרת בילויים משותפים בני יממה תתלווה אולברה אל אשפי בישול מקומיים שידריכו אותה בנבכי המטבח של ארצם ואף יספקו לה הזדמנות לבשל כמה מן המנות המקומיות בעצמה. בטורקיה תחבור אולברה אל השף ודאט בסארן, בעל מסעדת “פרייה” הנחשבת לאחד המוסדות הקולינריים החשובים באזור. שמו של בסארן יצא למרחוק כמי שאמון על שימורם של מתכונים עות’מאניים אותנטיים וכמומחה לשחזור המדויק של המטבח העות’מאני על שלל תבשיליו המסורתיים. בניס תתלווה אולברה אל השף כריסטיאן פלומייל, בעל מסעדת L’UNIVERS, המחזיקה בכוכב מישלן. אולברה תבלה את היום כולו עם פלומייל, החל מביקור בשוק המקומי, הילוות אל תחנת הרדיו בה מגיש פלומייל את תכניתו הקבועה וכלה בבישול ארוחת יום הולדת ליום הולדתה ה-60 של אימו. אולברה תמשיך בסיוריה הקולינריים-הגלובליים, כאשר תתלווה בהודו אל השף סנג’יב קאפור, הכוכב האולטימטיבי של המטבח ההודי המחזיק ב-15 מסעדות ברחבי העולם, ובאיטליה תתוודע אל השף אליה ריצו ובנו – מתיאו, שניהם מנהלים את מסעדת ‘איל דסקו’, אחת המסעדות הידועות בורונה, המחזיקה בשני כוכבי מישלן.
רימה אולברה מחזיקה כיום בחברת קייטרינג פרטית הפועלת בישראל ובסן פרנסיסקו. בין לקוחותיה של אולברה נמנים ד”ר קארל דג’ראסי ממציא הגלולה למניעת הריון וחתן פרס נובל, וטביתה סורן, כתבת MTV לשעבר. כמו כן תפקדה במהלך ארבע שנים כשפית ראשית במסעדת אנריקוס הקליפורנית בעלת 180 מושבים שהתמחתה בבישול ים תיכוני איכותי.

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